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Moutarde on tap at Maille's |
Our first day was spent finding our way around, doing the
important things: checking with the tourist information office to see what we
should see, stopping at a sidewalk café for a café au lait, and just for good
measure dropping into an Irish pub for a pint of the good stuff. Plus, being in
Dijon, we had to check out moutarde (better known in the US as mustard). We
dropped into the Maille moutarde shop and tried several flavors plus a few that
were only available on tap at this store. Back at the boat we wrote to the yard
that had done the work on Juniper hoping for a reply (remember, we are in
France).
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Joan café au lait |
Dijon Day two – after having to go a day without croissants
for breakfast Michael was sent out into the cold morning to search for the
nearest boulangerie. As luck would have it the walk was less than 5 minutes.
Joan barely had coffee ready by the time I was back. The morning mail asked if
we would mind returning to St. Jean de Losne to have the needed repair work
done – we politely said we would really prefer not as it was a 20 minute drive
for them and a 2 day trip for us that would have us arriving on a weekend (so
sit two more days) then a day of work on the boat and finally two days to get
back to where we were. A full week of cruising time lost. They agreed and said
they would have a mechanic visit us in Dijon.
Being a market day we grabbed our shopping bags and walked
to Les Halles in search of local delicacies.
We ended up with escargot, paupiette a couple of new, to us, les
fromages and vegetables we hadn’t been able to find in a grocery. All in all a
great haul. Another walk back to the boat for lunch before returning to the old
city center. By the way that walk is about ¾ of a mile each way.
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Escargot - and we're in Bourgogne, how can we pass this up? |
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Using our phones to translate French to English and visa versa |
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Chouette trail marker |
The rest of the day was spent doing a tourist walk called
the Parcours de la Chouette or the owl’s walk. The name comes from a carved owl
on the side of Notre-Dame that legend has will grant you a wish that is made
when your left hand is touching the carving. The trail is marked by following
bronze owl plaques on the sidewalk and guides you through the history of this
amazing city, plus most of the museums are free. They say an hour to walk the
trail; after a day on our feet we returned to the boat to put our feet up
having seen about half the stops. The evening mail also let us know Anthony,
our mechanic, would be aboard at nine the next morning. Our dinner entrée was
our escargot – and they were good.
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Anthony - we finally found the elusive part |
Dijon Day three – We were up in time to read the news while
enjoying our morning coffee and croissant before Anthony arrived. We had
already given them our two cents worth that maybe the boat wasn’t going fully
in gear and that was the cause of our problem. It only took a few minutes to
determine that was at least a part of the problem, if not the entire problem.
Then a couple of hours to actually find the piece that was causing the problem,
it was located behind the back wall of one of our cupboards (don’t even ask how
many places we took apart to find the correct one). With our mechanical problem
fixed it was time for lunch then a walk back to the old city center to finish
our walk.
The highlights were visiting the Musée des Beaux Arts
located in the Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy from the days when they ruled as
an independent region and probably had as much power and wealth as the king of
France. The buildings were spectacular and the medieval art and armament on
display was interesting and well displayed. In the afternoon we joined a group
to climb the stairs to the top of Tour Philippe Le Bon for a great view from
the highest point in Dijon. The tower was built to symbolize the prestige and
power of the Dukes of Burgundy.
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You have to look for art everywhere - this is how corbels are really held in place |
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Michael making a wish for our grand daughter to be's good life and health |
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Joan making a wish for our grand daughter to be as well |
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Musée des beaux arts - tomb of one of the Dukes of Burgundy |
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Rooftops taken from the top of Tour Philippe Le Bon (Philippe the Good) |
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Gargoyle at top of Tour Philippe Le Bon |
By this time we realized we didn’t have an éclusier
scheduled for the next day. A couple of phone calls left us frustrated but no
answers. We had the tourist information office call, they also had no luck. So
we returned to the boat so that I could try biking back down the canal to a VNF
office we had seen coming into Dijon. While I was getting a bike down Joan
found another boater that lived aboard in Dijon and knew the secret number to
get our trip scheduled. With that accomplished we decided to celebrate with a
dinner out for our last night in Dijon. Tomorrow we attempt to do 22 écluse in
one day. Some may call it crazy, we call it trying to make up the week we lost.
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