July 21 - 23. Decize to Coulanges

 July 21, 2023 – Friday - Decize to Vanneaux 

Michael & Joan
Returning from the market

Up at 7am, quick cup of coffee and off to the Decize Street Market at 8:30am with Ali and Charl. Small market, picked up some fruit, goat cheese and green beans. On way back to the boat picked up really good croissants, baguette and quiche. Had the croissants and quiche with final cup of coffee. Yummm. 

 

                                

Said goodbye to Ali and Charl, they are going down the Canal lateral á la Loire while we are going up. It was really nice buddy boating with them for 7 or 8 days. With so few boats out we may have been on our for many of those nights. 

Charl & Ali
Returning from the market

 

Just as we were untying Juniper to take off, a fish was flopping wildly a couple slips away. We thought it was stuck in the milfoil, but turns out another fish had grabbed it in the middle of its stomach and killed it.

Picture taken while coming up in an écluse

 Today was 16km and five écluses. We left Decize at 10:45am, had short stop for lunch, and arrived at the Commune de Gannay sur Loire by 3pm. Along the way we had four and five km between locks, that was a nice change from lock after lock after lock. We also saw what we believe were stork nests. We remembered seeing them last year going the other direction. A couple big storks, but didn’t see babies. 

 

Tied up past the camp area (moorage and RV spots) and boatyard and still had power!! There were chains through the metal canal wall that we tied to so didn’t have to drive stakes. Two more boats actually came in after us. One was Vivante, another NW boat, they left Decize just after us. Turns out they are the new owners, bought the boat with a partner from Tom and Carol. The other boat is a very nice couple, not sure where they’re from but I think French. Live music at the camp area, we could hear it down at the boat. We walked up there, but they must have been on break. Then we heard them again later from the boat. Nice music so we didn’t mind it. J 

 

Nice quiet spot and dark. Just the way I like it for sleeping!!! 

 

 

July 22, 2023 – Saturday - Vanneaux to Beulon 

Off at 9am. Five écluses and about 15km. Shared a couple locks with a small sailboat that had a young couple onboard. Still finding it weird to have so many kilometers between locks! 

 

Beulon is nice. Had power and access to water. Campers grabbed our lines when we arrived, which was very nice. We in turn, grabbed lines for a boat that was next to us the night before and had helped in then. Very nice French couple with a dog. Later a Locaboat with what looked like a dad and older son arrived so we and the French couple moved to make room for them. A number of RVs were also at the camp. Again, no fee and had water and electricity. 

Moorage at Beulon - Looks like a lot of boats, but only three of us were actually there.

 

Went for a stroll towards town in the evening after dinner, but having worn my sandals, didn’t go too far. The lock is right next to the camp and we were told the éclusier had to open the last lock we went through at 9am so we would be closer to 9:30 going through. 

 

July 23, 2023 – Sunday – Beulon to Coulanges 

Up, showered and ready for 9am lock, just in case. Good thing, as we saw the éclusier arrive a few minutes before 9am. He took us through our first and second écluses. A change from what we’d heard yesterday, but worked for us! 

 

Six écluses and 22.5km. Shared a couple locks with a Locaboat. Saw three day tour boats used for a party. Just not much traffic on the canals for being July. Unfortunately there is a lot of weeds which slow us down because it gets caught in the prop. Then the engine temp goes up and we have reverse the engine to try and break it loose. It’s a drag (pun intended). 

 

Morning was comfortable with cloud cover. Afternoon got hot and muggy – 85 and no breeze. Predicting thunderstorms through 12am Tuesday and 60% chance of rain tomorrow. Feels like it. 

 

Got to Coulonges around 2:30 – 3pm. Water and electricity is available using a CC at the terminal. Hoping it works! We only have hot water when we’re plugged in. When they replaced our hot water heater they did something wrong and it caused the boat to overheat until they removed the hot water heater from the engine cooling system.

 

Peaceful night by ourselves at Coulanges

Looks like no other boats sharing moorage with us tonight. Just a quay along the wall with bollards in a small quiet town. Had one small boat come tie up for a short bit, then left and went the same way they had come from. Very different from buddy boating with Old Harry. 

 

July 18 - 20: Panneçot - Decize

 July 18, 2023 – Tuesday – Panneçot to Cercy-la-Tour 

Off to Cercy-la-Tour today – 13km and 5 locks. Got in by noon and found moorage easily, as the only boat at the dock left when they saw us coming out of the écluse. Spent the day walking through the ancient village that is built on a hillside, then hunkered down in the shade on the bank above our boats. Spent the afternoon, dinner, and finally sunset there, waiting for the boats to cool enough to go to sleep.

A château with a view of its farm land that passed by.

The village of Cercy-la-Tour as seen from the
statue of Notre Dame, Du Nivernais that is located at the top of the hill

When we arrived we paid for moorage and power, only to find that the power didn't work. The office tried to see if they could get it fixed but had no luck. Since we paid by credit card on their digital pay station they couldn't refund any of our payment. More often than not moorage on this trip has been free, getting upset about having to overpay didn't seem worth worrying about.

  

 

July 19, 2023 – Wednesday – Cercy-la-Tour to Decize 

Got up early to depart at 8:30am. Four km until the first lock and it was a beautiful day. Even got to enjoy my second cup of coffee while under way! Hard to do that when you have locks frequently and don’t like cool coffee J. Got the first lock at 9:30 and it wasn’t open. We ended up tying up as we didn’t see the éclusier either. She finally came out and we continued on. She was not the fastest worker. So many of our éclusiers have been amazing! Not many boats going through so maybe she’s just not in good practice ;-). 

 

One of the remaining portals to the old
walled city of Decize. Built in the 1400s

Got into Decize by noon! Lots and lots of open slips. Immediately jumped on getting laundry done at the one washing machine and dryer at the port. I used the dryer on two cycles for the sheets and towels, but still not totally dry. We now have laundry hanging all over the boat. Clean sheets!!!!! It’s been too long… 

 

Michael ran to the store and we got a bit of cleaning done on the boat. Ready to head over to happy hour on Old Harry with Ali and Charl. 

 

Took a shower before climbing into bed with our clean sheets and it felt amazing!! 

 

July 20, 2023 – Thursday – Decize 

No alarm this morning. Still up by 7am because it gets bright and that’s what my body clock is set to now. Layover day in Decize. Walked through old town, across the river(s) to get to the Le Clerc Sport store to fix the brake on one of our bikes and pick up new bike tube for the tank bike. Now we’re up to two bikes again. Yippee! Charl and Ali walked out with us then we split up to each take care of chores. We went Brico for bbq gaz and grocery shopping at the La Clerc, 

Back at the marina we topped off our fuel and replaced the empty Gaz (Butane Bottle), then filled up water. Our goal is to hit the street Market in the AM and head out of Decize no later than 13h00. Tonight we’re going to dinner with Charl and Ali at the restaurant in the hotel in marina. Made reservations last night to be sure we could get in.

 

Weather is really good. 80s today, not too humid. Shade makes a huge difference as does a slight breeze. Temps should be low 80s to mid-to-upper 70s this next week. Very happy with these temps given that many other parts of the world are breaking heat records for highs and duration. Last year Tom & Mary had three separate weeks here in France on the boat with temps 100 degrees. We are counting our blessings!! 

 

Dinner at the Port of Decize Hotel Restaurant was “lovely” as Charl would say. Food presentation was beautiful, Finished the night with a scotch on Old Harry. It was a bit sad knowing it was our last evening with them! They reiterated their invitation for us to come visit them in Akaroa, New Zealand. Suggesting we rent an RV and follow them around on a tour before spending a week at their home. We, of course, extended a visit to Seattle! 

 

July 16-18 Baye to Penneçot

 July 16, 2023 – Sunday – Baye to Châtillon-en-Bazois 

Left Baye this morning and had a great run to Châtillon-en-Bazois. Still buddy boating with Ali & Charl on Old Harry. Once in port we had happy hour on Old Harry and Michael & June on Contessa, also from New Zealand, joined us. We’ve seen them occasionally but this is the first time we met them. 

A triple chamber écluse. Juniper and Old Harry still in tight quarters.
Joan handling lines for both boats on the wall
as well as helping the lock keepers open and close gates

 

The weather was a wonderful temperature today, chilly in the AM then comfortable the remainder of the day. So lucky not to have the heat! We did 14 locks and almost 14 kilometers. There were some doubles and a triple lock so had a couple nice stretches of running without a lock. Going down now! While it is easier, the bollards are not set well for our two boats so it takes some juggling to keep the boats apart.

Passing through acres of sun flowers

Châtillon-en-Bazois has a chateau just above the harbor. And a grocery store about 1 kilometer away. We are in need of groceries so will make the walk tomorrow morning. May not see the chateau as we need to keep moving towards the Saône River for handing the boat off to Tom & Mary. 

  

 

July 17, 2023 – Monday - Châtillon-en-Bazois to Panneçot 

Alarm went off at 6:45am so Michael could go to the boulangerie here in Châtillon-en-Bazois, he returned with croissants and a baguette cereal (seeds, etc included). We all walked to the grocery store and departed with Old Harry 10:30am. Warm day! Reaching 80. 

 

The main route to the store was along a busy road.
Fortunately we were able to locate a trail and farm road
that got us to the same place.

We did 22 km and 9 locks and many bridges. The bridges were very low and caused challenges for Old Harry, which draws more water and is much higher than Juniper. They managed to get under the bridge (Pont) that is the lowest on the Nivernais because the lock keeper lowered the water. This is a known challenge and the common way to solve it. I had gotten off Juniper under the bridge and helped push/pull them to keep them in the center and inch their way through. They killed the engine, put the throttle knobs down and still scraped one – it was the highest point on the boat at that time. Now they know they can make it all the way up and around and back to Auxerre. 

Bicycle camp, just across the path from our moorage.
Campers were 6 - 11 doing a 100km bike ride over
4 days. A van carried their camping gear.

 

Arrived in Panneçot at a municipal camp ground. A group of youngsters, looks like a summer camp, are camping right next to us. They are so good! Quiet too!! Both boys and girls and only heard one screech when a ball was heading for the water. There are bikes and they’re tent camping. Wish we could chat better with the staff and learn more about them. The leaders found their camp stove and canister didn’t work together. Ali and Michael worked with them to see what either of us had that would work for them. Luckily one of the Juniper tanks connected. Not sure how long it’ll last for them as we found it was basically empty when Michael pulled it out. Luckily our other feels pretty full! We’ll get a full one in Decize in a couple of days. Doing very little cooking since it’s so warm. Salads and BBQ meat are the name of the game. 

 

Happy hour on Old Harry again this evening. Charl likes it on their boat so he can smoke his cigars J. We each bring our own beverage and take turns bringing a simple snack. 

 

"Juniper" and "Old Harry" - Campers are directly behind us.

Surprised there was no other boats in the camp ground, but there are camper vans. Only 12 Euros including power and water (if you need it). A Le Boat came in and Michael, being his usual self, helped by grabbing their lines. They were in great control. They only stayed a short bit, then took off, so just us two boats for the night. 

 

Watching the kids camp was taking Michael and I down memory lane – me working camps, Post 954, and taking our own kids on adventures kayaking, biking and camping when they were young. Hope to do some of that with Emma… 

 

July 12 - 15 Sardy-les-Epiry - Baye

 July 12 - Today's the day we do the 16 écluses of the Sardy Lock Staircase that links together 16 chambers. While some may think this sounds like a chore the staircase takes us up a beautiful valley, with many of the old lock keeper's houses now inhabited by artists. Plus you gat a top notch crew of éclusiers, We had a team of three that whisked us through in a bit over 2 1/2 hours.

The distance between chambers leaves just enough room for uphill and downhill boats to pass

Lock keepers house

With the shorter locks, it was a tight fit for "Old Harry" and Juniper.
Charl and Ali hard at work on their lines

One of the first things we notice is these écluses are 10 meters shorter than the chambers we have been in lately. Buddy boating with a 15 meter boat and us at 11 meters doesn't leave much room for lock doors to open and close and us to keep from hitting each other in the turbulent currents experienced going uphill

Two of our lock keepers waiting for the water levels to match
so they can open the gate

Entrance to one of the tunnels

Dark and narrow
hard to keep the boat in the center

Passageway between tunnels

At the top - your reward is a oneway passage of three unlit tunnels connected by a deep narrow ditch. In the end, you arrive at Baye with its beautiful Étang de Baye that serves as a reservoir for the Nivernais Canal as well being a beautiful clean body of water for swimming, non-motorized boating and fishing.

And - our final reward was a dinner out with Charl and Ali, our écluse partners these past few day.

The end of the storm - tomorrow's going to be a great day for cruising

We ended up staying an extra day due to a storm that swept through, plus Michael wasn't feeling good. That evening we had a rainbow that went nearly from horizon to horizon. What a treat

July 9-12 Clamesy - Sardy-les-Épiry

Spent Sunday laying low after our long day of travel followed by an evening of time with new friends. By afternoon we decided it was time to get a walk in to take a look at this beautiful historic town. With everything closed for Sunday we had the streets to ourselves to admire the old buildings.

Jousters try to knock their opponent overboard. Since this was a practice we were able to watch many matches. Both male and female participants of a wide variety of ages and builds were participating

On our way back to the boat we happened to look down river and see what appeared to be joutes nautique boats. We've heard of the sport of nautical jousting being popular in France, and even seen boats tied up that appeared to be joutes nautique boats, and have tried to find a jousting match, only to find we were a month off on the date. Tonight was our lucky night. The Clamecy jousting club was practicing. We were able to watch over twenty practice jousts before deciding it was time to call it a night.

Monday we were up and moving early to get provisions that will have to last us for much of the next week. From Clamecy we spend less and less time on the Yonne River and more on the Canal du Nivernais. This is the point at which we begin to seriously climb to the top of the canal which will be marked by three tunnels we will pass through. Provisioned and drinking water topped off we began saying our goodbyes to the crews we'd spent the past few days with. A boat in front of us was also getting ready to head upstream so we talked with them and decided we'd be lock partners for the day.

We found that we worked very well as a team sharing locks with Charles and Ali aboard "Old Harry." When we arrived at the point they were planning to spend the night, we decided to also stop. They invited us over that evening and we decided we'd be lock buddies to at least Baye, which is at the top of the Nivernais.

Our second night with our écluse buddies Charl and Ali from "Old Harry"
We're in the port of Citry les Mines

Had a nice day's run the next day. Thirteen locks and seven lift bridges that we had to raise and lower. On top of the work it was hot and very humid. Fortunately we were able to take our mandatory lunch break in an old écluse that had plenty of shade. By the end of the day at Chitry les Mines we were all exhausted.

Our lunch view 

On our way to Sardy-les-Épiry we were allowed to take our lunch break in the écluse, as there was no place to tie up along the canal. Tomorrow we start the staircase.

June 6 - 9 Mailly-la Ville - Clamecy

 June 6

We tried to get an early start from Mailly-la-Ville, but two large boats managed to get to the écluse early, plus one was a hotel barge which is a priority vessel that goes to the head of the lineup. After going through the first couple of écluse by ourselves, we were asked to wait for a boat that was behind us to reduce the number of écluse cycles with the water shortage.

Joan opening an écluse gate for us to continue on our way

The canal closure for lunch found us at Merry-sur-Yonne and the beautiful backdrop of Saussol Rocks, a climbers paradise. No climbers today, but very pretty. Will try to bike back down to hike to the top.

We arrived in Chåtel-Censoir, a nice marina with electricity, water and plenty of friendly boaters to share information with. A nice walk into town to check out the Proxi-Marché to supplement our stores, then back to Juniper for a nice cold dinner on a hot night.

June 7

Bicycled back down to Merry-sur-Yonne and hiked (scrambled) to the top of Saussol Rocks. The way up was steep enough that we were not looking forward to attempting the down climb. Fortunately there was a road we were able to use for the return to our bikes. While on top we noticed a group of four young adult climbers setting up their gear. By the time we got back to our bikes they had a rope connecting two of the rocks, curiosity got the best of us, we had to wait to see what they were up up to. Turns out they were going to walk a slack line across the abyss (well harnessed in case of a fall). We watched a great show for quite a while, before taking back roads back to Juniper.

Looking down off of Saussols Rocks at the Yonne River

Michael at the top of the rocks

Slackline performer

June 8

An early start, to make sure we were ahead of the big boats for today's écluse. Had the canal to ourselves with the exception of passing a few boats going the opposite direction. We arrived in Clamecy mid-afternoon to a nearly full harbor. As we began our approach into a tight spot we had several boaters offer to give us a hand, making a difficult docking very easy. It must have been our karma for all the boats we help each year. We now know how much it must be appreciated.

Sausagefest in Clamecy. Music, food, beer and new friends

Turns out that tonight is a sausage and beer festival in town. The streets are closed. Bands are playing, tables are set up to eat and socialize and plenty of beer and sausage. A miniature Octoberfest. The people that had helped us dock invited us to join them for a pre-function aboard their boat Sadie 2 with Kimberly and John-Michael from Ziggy B. Alex and Deb are from Annapolis and have connections with Seattle. Turns out we knew their boat quite well, it had been owned by a New Zealand couple we had cruised with many years ago. It was well after midnight by the time we were back aboard Juniper.

June 9

A day in Clamecy to restock our food supplies before heading into the next section of canal. Turns out the big store is closed today, so it will be an early morning shopping trip before departing tomorrow.

Alex and Deb leaving Clamecy, this afternoon, to continue their journey downstream.
Hope we see them again, next year.
Big thank you to both of them for a wonderful night in Clamecy

July 4 Auxerre - Mailly-la-Villle

 Arrived back in Auxerre and were lucky enough to find moorage at the fuel dock. Tomorrow morning we will stock up on groceries and top off fuel before starting the Canal du Nivernais. The Nivernais follows the Yonne River into the hills. Near the top it will be fed by a beautiful reservoir at Baye, then follow the Aron drainage to the Loire River.

Ron & Jacquelyn (l'Heritage) - Joan & Michael (Juniper)
plus Susanne, Wolfgang & Harvey asleep under the table (Water Wolf)

Juniper leaving Auxerre.

Before our departure we enjoyed a wonderful dinner with the crews of "Water Wolf" and "l'Heritage" who we had shared moorages, wine and écluses with for the past week. This would be the last night before we begin going our separate ways. 

Three boats flying flags from three different countries (France, Great Britain and Ireland) Spending a peaceful night near Vincellles. All had crews including some Americans, or expat Americans.

Our first day was a repeat of our trip up the Yonne to Vincelles with Julie and Bill, but this time we stayed at a wonderfully quiet and peaceful spot just outside of town. Sharing the spot with crews we had been traveling with. Tomorrow we all go our separate ways, and we begin meeting new acquaintances.

As we continue up the Yonne it becomes less navigable and we spend more time in Le Canal du Nivernais than on the river. Our stop tonight was Mailly-la-Ville, a peaceful river village with nice moorage. During the afternoon we took a short hike into the hills behind town in hopes of getting a view of the river - no luck - it was nicely hidden in the forest that lines it.

The hills behind Mailly-la-Ville made for a wonderful afternoon walk.

Mailly-la-Ville moorage .