May 29-30 Clamecy to Châtel Censoir and Vézelay

 May 29 Clamecy to Châtel Censoir

Before we left Seattle we had invited our neighbors to join us for dinner when they were also in France. While they were on their bike trips and Joan and I canal boating we’d texted back and forth. Andy decided he wanted to take us up on our offer to see Juniper. Today he’ll be taking a train to Châtel Censoir, our destination. As it turns our his train will be early enough that he can walk a couple of kilometers up the canal and meet us at our last écluse for the day.

Châtel Censoir château and church
above the marina

Arriving at our last écluse, Andy was waiting for us to catch a ride back to Châtel Censoir. A couple of kilometers later and we were tied up under the hilltop Château and church at Châtel Censoir. All three of us were ready to find a route up the hill to check things out. Took the road up, but found a wonderful trail back down.

While helping boats tie up as they arrived the crew on the boat next to us arrived by taxi. Talking with them they were just returning by taxi from visiting Vézelay, a historic town located on the eternal hill, crowned by the Basilica of Sainte-Marie-Madeleine (Mary Magdalene) originally built as a Benedictine Abbey Church between 1120 and 1150. Guess we know where we’re going tomorrow.

May 30 - Vézelay

Walking the Vezelay hill toward the basilica

No écluses today just a cab ride with a driver that knows the road so well (I hope) that he’s comfortable going 120kph on narrow twisting roads, while talking on the phone (ok, the phone part was only on our return trip).

We spent the morning wandering through the town, working our way up the hill to the Basilica. Along the way we found an interpretive center and got a nice presentation about what to look for while visiting the Basilica, including lots of little pieces we would have completely missed if we hadn’t taken the time. Made it to the Basilica just about lunch time and walked in as a service was happening. The voices of those singing and chanting were amazing, that so few could fill that space with glorious sound.

Neighbor Andy checking out the beer & wine cellar

After lunch we continued touring the Basilica and the grounds of what had been a huge Abbey in its day. With views of the villages, farm land and vineyards stretching for miles.

Returned to Juniper in time for dinner and walking Andy to the train station for his evening train back to Paris.

Basilica of Sainte Marie-Madeleine (Mary Magdelene)

Mason Marks found throughout the Basilica

 

View from the basilica at the top of the hill in Vézelay

One of 15 wooden crosses in the basilica
a translation of the plaque is as follows

1946 - Europe emerged from the Second World War destroyed and ruined. "Christians needed to gather in prayer to overcome the forces of hate which had destroyed the world" in celebrating the anniversary of the preaching of the Second Crusade by St Bernard of Clairvaux at Vezelay in 1146.

 

The pilgrimage was an event of forgiveness and peace-making. Fourteen wooden crosses were carried along the roads from England, Luxembourg, Belgium Switzerland, Italy and different departments of France converging on the basilica.

 

Certain German prisoners held in a camp in the vicinity of Vezelay asked to join the procession. Hastily, a fifteenth cross was made. This became a powerful symbol of reconciliation for the world. 30,000 people gathered at Vezelay. During this event, Vezelay became a place of prayer for reconciliation and a peaceful Europe