Sunday, Sept 7, 2025 - St Jean de Losne

 Sunday, September 7, 2025 – Ranchot to St Jean de Losne

Ranchot écluse. The river and canal are separated by a cement wall

Sunday morning is sunny and warm. High will be 83. We also have wind, 9-12mph with gusts to 23. The gusts come frequently. We’d hoped to go to Dole for a night, we have power there, but the wind is so strong there is no way we can dock. There are very few private boats tied up and no one visible that might lend a hand. At this point the wind blowing in the 20s with lulls of 12mph. We continue on. There is an industrial area where you’re not allowed to tie up and there are no other ports that have power. Hoping to stop at Abergement-la-Ronce to have lunch. Two boats take up the whole dock because they didn’t tie close together, another boat wild tied just downstream. It’s not worth asking them to move just so we can have lunch, so we continue on and eat while underway. The wind is strong and warm all day. Takes a bit of edge off the sun. It reminds me of the mistral wind in south France on our bike tour so many years ago, just not quite as strong.

"Juniper" back at St Jean

We arrive in St Jean de Losne, check the gas pump, still out of order, and tie up at 6pm. It was eight hours of running not stop. With the sun and strong wind, it was exhausting. Time for a G&T, or two! 8:30pm and it’s still around 70 degrees. Shower and bed coming up sooner than later.

Wed Sept 3 - Sat Sept 6, 2025 Rachot, Weir at Torpes, Ranchot

 Wednesday, September 3 – 4, 2025 - Dole to Ranchot

Americans are welcome

We’re heading out of Dole at 8:57am up-stream to Ranchot. A favorite place of Michael’s. Three boats pass us going downstream while underway. We arrive at 1:30 and find the quai empty. Two boats pass us going downstream in the afternoon. We get out for a short walk and half expect to see a boat on the quai when we return since that happened to us twice on the Bourgogne, but not this time. We have the place to ourselves for the night.

Thursday we wake to rain and another thunderstorm. We knew it was coming and it’s predicted to rain all day so had decided to hunker down for the day. Lots of reading. A break in the rain so we take another walk to see the village of Ranchot. Walked up to the train station, hadn’t realized they had a stop. Not a lot to see, very quiet. By evening, three more boats have joined us. A full quai!

Leaving the port of Dole

Friday, September 5, 2025 – Ranchot to the Weir at Torpes

School group watching us transit an écluse

At 10am (yes, not 9am!) we head up stream to the weir Michael has wanted to tie up at for the night since he saw it. Gary (one of our original partners) had marked it in the boat chart book. It’s past Osselle, just past écluse de gard 57 N Torpes (Flood gate). Across the weir is a factory, which we thought was closed down. But we saw steam from a couple chimneys and there were lights on/in some buildings at dark, so some of it appears to be in use. We think it was a paper or stationary mill at one time.

Our moorage for the night

Right after we tie up, about 1:30pm, a Hotel Barge comes downstream. So glad we’re tied up already!!! The canal from Ranchot has some narrow, one way stretches and blind corners. It would not have been fun to meet it underway. A charter boat coming down stream stops for lunch around 2pm. Later in the afternoon, a private almost peniche size boat also coming downstream pulls in and stays the night. It was amazing watching them bring it in between Juniper and the rock wall at the end.

High water on the Doubs

When wild tying we keep an eye on the house batteries. We find they’re not holding a charge, even with the fridge on 2 and nothing else really running. OK, the bilge pump does occasionally as it seems we have a slow leak – Michael thinks it’s the stuffing box. I’d say it was a quiet night, but the water running over the weir is ever present.

The canal water levels on this section were often higher than the upper écluse gates. It was different entering an écluse that sounds and feels like the valves have already been opened.

Saturday, September 6, 2025 – Weir at Torpes to Ranchot

In the morning our battery volts are too low, they’re not holding a charge. We hurry to get underway instead of the leisurely morning we had planned. We depart at 9am so they can recharge as we run. Power at Ranchot comes on at 6:30pm and goes off at 8 or 8:30am, so we’ll still have to wait to plug in but hope the run downs brings the volts back up enough.

Gîte in Ranchot on the croissant route

Arriving in Ranchot the boat Aperose is tied at the end. We had seen the boat in Dole. It’s distinctive with it’s bright red hull and it’s in very good shape. We tie up at the other end of the quai. Our walk today takes us across the bridge into Rans looking for a trail Michael had sorta found. Never found it so wandered up the hill, appreciated the view and wander back to the boat. Surprise, another boat is on the quai, tied next to Aperose. We move our boat further to the end so another boat could easily fit if needed. No other boat joins us. A young woman from Freiberg, Germany (we’ve been there!) is cycling to Balboa, Spain by herself. She asks if we can charge her phone while she eats lunch. She saved up her money, quit her job as a school counselor and is doing her month-long ride. Then she’s not sure, maybe something with music, she plays guitar and sings. Counseling with kids was stressful.

Boys fishing at the Ranchot Quai

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Sunday, August 31 – Tuesday, Sept 2, 2025 - Dole

Collegial Notre Dame is the backdrop for the Dole marina

The boat tied next to us at Abergement la-Ronce takes off around 9am. We follow behind a lock. Reach Dole in the early afternoon. A cross current is flowing, making docking a bitch. Juniper doesn’t steer in reverse which really doesn’t help. It takes a few tries and the couple on the boat Victoria next to us, come grab our lines. Thank you!! While we finish tying up a man on the boat on the other side of us asks where we’re from, turns out they’re from Whidbey Island. The couple who helped us are from New Zealand and pleasant to chat with. Meanwhile, Michael, I and others on the dock help other boats coming in because it’s a struggle for everyone, even those with bow and stern thrusters.

Robin Maxime in concert

We’re moored below the Collegial Notre Dame as in years past. It’s beautiful and the old town around it is amazing to just walk the streets or follow the Circuit du Chat Perché (Perched cat) which takes you to historic sites around town. Having done that before, we visited the Tourist Office to see what else there was. Walking back to the boat we see a sign for acoustic guitarist Robin Maxime in concert in the church at 7pm. Why not! He plays a few pieces we are familiar with, and then some lively ones we are not; and needless to say, the acoustics in the church are amazing. We would never have thought a solo acoustic guitar could fill a cathedral by itself. Fun spur of the moment event, which we don’t do often enough.

Le Sanctuaire Notre-Dame de Mont-Roland

Monday we head out on a 8km round trip walk to Le Sanctuaire Notre-Dame de Mont-Roland. Some roads, trails beside agricultural fields and through some woods. Mont-Roland sits atop a hill. The first thing we see on exiting the woods are 14 large cement crosses, Stations of the Cross, lining the road. Just past these is the church. “A place of peace and intercession of the Virgin Mary since the 11th century.” There is a wonderful view of the area between the Saône and Jura massif. We could even see the Collegial Notre Dame in Dole.

Trail to mountain top.                     Stations of the cross.                        Joan and the church organ

Nice walk on farm roads, no cars

Tuesday we need to provision since we’re heading out tomorrow. We walk to the E.Leclerc for groceries and the Bricomarche to replace our syphon to transfer gazoil from our 20 liter jerry cans to Juniper's fuel tank. Our experience with trying to pour 20 liters of ggazoil into a funnel was a bit on the messy side.In the afternoon we do the other walk the gentleman in the tourist office told us about - 3km that takes us up the canal a bit then we turn off to walk through agricultural fields and woods, then back to the canal. The sky is blue with some puffy white clouds. It felt good getting out and walking a bit more!

Saturday August 30,2025 – St Jean de Losne to Abergement la-Ronce

Sunday August 30 - Underway again

40 liters of gazoil transported a kilometer

As usual, we head out at 9ish. Goal is to top off fuel and head to Dole. As we pass a boat down the dock from us they inform us the gas dock is not be working. It’s not far so we go out to double check and confirm they’re correct. Head back in to Blanquarts. Michael talks to David, who says he didn’t know about it (but later we hear it’s been down for two weeks…), and offers his cart to us to haul gas cans. The cart is great. The syphon is missing the original hose, but a regular piece of hose is with it, so we try using rescue tape to attach it. Works with some drips until it doesn’t. At that point we pull out the funnel and pour. No big mess(!), just a little to clean up from the drips. It looks like one fuel can will do us, so the other is in the upper locker for later.

Cruising the Rhône au Rhin is beautiful

We head out about 2:45 after returning the cart to David. We get to Abergement la-Roce at Lock 72 around 5pm and Michael recalls it being a nice place. Quai is full, but one boat is about to take off and tells us to give them 5 minutes. No problem! Tie up and listen to a group of young, 10 or 12 year olds, riding motorcycles in circles trying to pop wheelies in the area next to the playground. A bit loud, but not crazy. Doesn’t last too long and then it’s just a few kids playing at the playground and people out walking. Pleasant. The bigger challenge was the mosquitoes. Oh, and the church bells ringing all night long. Right next to the canal practically. A bit of distance is my preference. 

Thursday, August 28, - Friday, August 29, 2025 – St Jean de Losne

 

Thursday, August 28, 2025 –  Longecourt to St Jean de Losne

All 3 tucked into an écluse

Tham enters the lock before us around 9:30am. It’s bigger than Juniper and the éclusier tells them to let us pass once through the écluse so we can share écluses with the two boats that were waiting below the écluse. All three boats have English speakers on board who are pleasant and help each other. The couple on the Le Boat are from Australia and have purchased the boat.  Being the last of the three we had nothing to tie a sternline to and Joan's bow line couldn't keep us from moving backward. We had to keep a close eye of the sill on the uphill end of the écluse. If our stern hangs up on that as the water goes out, it wouldn't be a pretty sight.

The éclusier informs us we’ll stop for lunch after écluse 74 Brazey. No bollards, but two wood poles gets the sailboat and Le Boat and our bow secured to shore. We pound a stake in for our stern. After lunch we finish our our cruising day to Saint Jean around 2:15.

The sill we had to make sure we were clear of as the water level lowers

Joan’s right eye has been itching for the past week plus; and today started tearing and getting pressure in the sinus below. Time to get it checked. Nathalie at Blanquarts recommends going to the local Medical House. It's a short walk. The young doc is the receptionist and billing department as well. He takes Joan as a walk-in after patients with appointments. It’s a short wait! He speaks pretty good English, but we use the phone to translate a little. The exam and writing of prescriptions go quickly. His bill, 30 euros. We pay him and he gives us a facture for Joan's insurance company. We walk around the corner to the pharmacy and they are out of one of the prescriptions. He tries to call the doc about a substitute, but no answer. His colleague says we need to go back and talk to the doc. We walk into the waiting room, a mom with two young boys are waiting. The doc comes to get them and Joan asks if he has just a moment, the mom is very gracious about our interruption. Doc makes a note on the prescription confirming the substitute med and we’re off back to the pharmacy and get the replacement. My charge at the pharmacy is 26 euros so far. They also give me paperwork for our insurance. Fingers crossed one or all of these helps!!

Friday, August 29, 2025 – St Jean de Losne

Joan's dessert at lunch

Trip to the pharmacy for the eye drops to fulfill the prescription is 23 euros. Less than 100 euros all total. We spend the day provisioning, washing clothes and general housekeeping. Michael’s favorite lunch spot is open so we make a point to go. They were closed earlier in August when we first arrived. Another wonderful lunch – wine, gazpacho soup, Joan has salmon and Michael has pork chop. Dessert tops us off.  Happy to say by the end of the day there is some improvement in Joan’s eye.

Wednesday, August 27, 2025 – Longecourt-en-Plaine.

Didn’t hear much rain last night. We had told the lock keepers we’d leave Thursday morning at… 9:15am. When Tess took off at 9 this morning it was pouring with thunder and lightning. We were glad for the choice we made since it was supposed to rain all day. Turns out it didn’t! I think Tess had a couple hours then it cleared off. We walked the town and saw the outside of the Chateau de Longecourt-en-Plaine. On our return we chatted with the couples on the two boats leaving at 1pm. John and Winnifred, from Ireland, boat is Alvoirs II and I didn’t get the other couples names but they are on Clamente, from England. They had just brought their boat down from the Netherlands I think it was. Both are headed to St Jean de Losne so we may seem them on Thursday.

Two boats pass us while we’re hanging out and go through écluse 69. The éclusier tells us they’re stopping before the next lock and we’ll be joining them tomorrow through écluse 70 – 76. A bit later Dorney and Tham come down, we saw Tham in Pouilley as well. Dorney goes through the lock and Tham ties up across the canal down the quai from us. Three of us on the quai again tonight. The éclusiers will be busy with five boats heading toward St Jean de Losne tomorrow!

3:40pm starts to drizzle. 8:30pm it rains hard with thunder and lightning. We’re just finishing dinner so turn off the light and watch the show. After a while it eases and we go to bed. Then it comes back with a vengeance and goes late into the night.

Monday Aug 25 - Tues Aug 26

 Monday, August 25, 2025 – Plombiers-les-Dijon

"Juniper" at Plombiers-les-Dijon

9:15am at ecluse 42. One eclusier from Fleurey to Plombiers through ecluse 49. We arrive in time and with afternoon heat to hand wash laundry and hang it to dry. Rain is forecast for the next week so now is our chance to get things dry! While relaxing and reading “Tess” arrives. We met Diana and Mark in Pouilley, an English couple that lives is southern France for many years. They invite us over for happy hour at 6:30. Wonderful visit lasting until 9:30, much longer than expected. Mark just kept pouring wine… A lovely tray of appetizers and wine. They both worked on Super Yachts, Mark as captain and Diana as steward, I believe. They had interesting tid bits to share including 

Tuesday, August 26, 2025 – Longecourt-en-Plaine

Passing a hotel barge.

Surprise – left Plombiers at 9:15am. OK, not a surprise. ;-) We share locks with "Tess" all the way down to Longecourt, arriving at 5:30pm. Long day!! We had one lock keeper who was on his phone a lot. While not grumpy or short, he didn’t seem happy either. About three quarters of the the way down we find out he’s usually at the desk answering calls and working on logistics. Today he’s doing both jobs. Have no idea what happened to all the lock keepers, but it made for a slow slog. Water is shallow and we manage OK passing a peniche. A couple locks after lunch a second eclusier arrives. Joan can stop being a gate closer/opener! After a few more ecluses, two more lock keepers arrive. One we recognize from our trip up. We have four, then three, then two lock keepers over the last ecluses.

Wet tine at Longecourt

Two boats are already tied on the wall at Longecourt. They both draw more water that either Tess or Juniper and luckily managed to find the deep. "Tess" was not so lucky and ended up side tying to "Clamante", whom they had met before. By now the rain that’s been predicted has arrived. Along with the Thunder and lightning. It’s wet, but warm, so a little muggy. The eclusiers have been trying to figure out schedules for everyone. The two boats already in Longecourt have 1pm locking tomorrow. "Tess" wants 9am, but is told there are two Hotel Barges going the same direction, one just below ecluse 69 where we are. The other we’re not sure where it is; but those two will be leaving at 9am so "Tess" will have another slow go traveling behind them. They don’t move fast and are even slower into/out of the ecluses. They take the 9am anyway as they have to get to St Jean de Losne to pick up a friend that’s joining them.

We all just hunker down inside for the evening.