Julyl 29 - July 31 Montchanin to Santenay

 July 29, 2023 – Saturday - Montchanin to St-Léger-sur-Dheune 

From Joan's Journal

Joan and our favorite éclusier

Up and happy to be hitting the down locks for a while starting today, which we know tend to be easier than up, even the deep ones up to 5,58 meters. To be sure we’ve covered our bases, Michael uses the French boat phone to text VNF around 8am and confirm again (we told them yesterday) that we are heading out 09:15 and which direction. We get to Écluse #1, Méditerranée at our scheduled time. No éclusier there, but it’s an automatic lock, no problem we think, it’s ready for us. We tie up, pull the blue cord….nothing. Wait a few minutes, try again. Nothing. Ummm, here we go again! I try the call box on the hut, doesn’t work. But the numbers are on the hut, same as yesterday's. I get the same lady I think. We try to communicate again and I keep my fingers crossed. Shortly a VNF van pulls up and a woman éclusier is there to help with this chain of écluses, five or six at least. She speaks very good English. Merci!!!!! While helping us she chats away and we have delightful conversations. Her husband is also working the écluses, he’ll be with us through the next chain of écluses, but he shows up early and we get them both. 

 

Many of the écluses on this stretch were drop of 5 meters (16 feet), or more

We tell them we’ll wild-tie after écluse #12 for lunch, and he offers to help us tie up, but we confirm we can handle it, and they drive off to have lunch together. Have never had an éclusier offer that kind of help! They were fabulous in the écluses as well. We get to the next écluse about 13h30 and he has it up and read for us. He helps us and chats away just as delightfully. We get to the end of his chain, but he can’t reach his colleague so he takes us through the next lock as well. These two know about customer service!!!! He also shared his frustration with VNF personnel – work for 30 or so years and you automatically become a Chief. Which means you don’t have to work at the écluses, even when they’re short staffed. He shared his frustrations and how so many government employees are this way. We commiserated as that’s the case in the US and so many countries. 

 

They owned a restaurant in a small village nearby for 25 or so years. Raised their son who is now 20 and in law school. After they sold the restaurant they got a job offer in Costa Rica at a fishing lodge he had visited as a customer the year prior. They worked there five months. They were with VNF last year and again this summer. What’s next – they’re not sure. He’d love to go back to Costa Rica (he’s an avid fisherman) and she’d rather not be that from their son, maybe amongst other things as well. 

 

July 30, 2023 – Sunday - St-Léger-sur-Dheune 

From Joan's Journal

Layover day. Slept in, took a shower, enjoyed our coffee.  Walked to the grocery store to replenish, always pick up a few more items then we think we’re going to. Maybe if I didn’t grab an extra grocery bag, just in case…. 

The "house" we tied up in front of at St-Léger-sur-Dhuene

 

An éclusier came by to confirm when we’d be continuing and we said tomorrow morning and suggested 10h00 as a hotel barge was going through in our direction at 09h00. They are slow! Glad we found out today instead of tomorrow morning so we know we can be leisurely with our coffee and reading the news. 
 

Eurovelo 6 - what an amazing route

The woman éclusier yesterday had told us about La Villa Perrusson and gave us pamphlet. We didn’t stop on our way yesterday so biked up today. Rode about 17 miles on Eurovelo 6 with one small stretch on the road. It was a very comfortable temp, and so nice riding on the tree lined path. Felt really good to be on a bike again! 

 

The Villa and garden is part of the Écomusée Creusot Montceau and was refurbished, or more rebuilt. The home was built by a tile and ceramic maker between the canal and the railroad. Both were used for moving goods but also to promote their goods. The exterior of the house was built to show off their work and designs. It was quite ornate. We walked through the exposition rooms looking at photos of the refurbishing procsess, then figured out there was a part you needed to take a tour to see; unfortunately, we were too late to sign up for one. 

 

La Villa Perrusson - Showing the many architectural decorations produced

A lovely bike ride back to the boat. Saw our woman éclusier and thanked her for the recommendation. She said no boats were going through her section of locks today. Wow. So weird to be end of July and so few boats. 

July 31, 2023 – Monday - St-Léger-sur-Dheune to Santenay

From Joan's Journal

Four écluses and 8 km – easy day! The first écluse was scheduled for 10h00 with the éclusier yesterday because a hotel barge had it scheduled for 9h00. Arrived 10h05 and the lock was down. We grabbed a bollard and waited. We couldn’t figure out if the “eye” wasn’t seeing us to activate it or what. Around 10h30 the éclusier arrived by car and activated the lock without getting out. Once he was sure it was operating he waived at us and drove off. We get in, tie up and I pull the blue cord. Nothing. Waiting and multiple tries, nothing. A gentleman who lives in what was probably the old éclusier's house beside the lock comes out, goes into the hut and works the magic – the lock closes and all is good. The next locks were all set up and ready for us and worked as they should. We’re guessing the éclusier had to reset the locks after the hotel barge and hadn’t worked that into the scheduling with us. C’est la vie in France. 

 

The Santenay vineyards - last time we were by the leaves were just beginning to show

This time, the grapes are starting to change color.

We got to Santenay and were going to stop just for lunch then decided to stay the night. Wild-tying as there was no power or water, but a nice wall and bollards. There was a steady, and I mean steady, number of cyclists and walkers going by. It was one of the best used section of trail we’ve seen yet. Many appeared to be locals, some distance riders. It was a nice day with a comfortable temperature. Another boat that had left St-Léger-sur-Dheune shortly after us pulled up for lunch also. It was the boat that had the large pop-up canopy over the cockpit, like the canopies you use in your yard or for events. Michael helped with their lines. 

 

Malcolm and Marilyn's very original bimini. Fits perfectly and lots of shade.

After lunch we decided to stay the night as it’s probably our last opportunity to “wild-tie”.  The couple, Malcomb and Marilyn, came over, thanked Michael for the help and introduced themselves. Very nice chat with them. Helping someone with lines has been a great way to meet folks! They headed into Chagny and we agreed to meet up the next day. Talked about doing a rum and wine tasting together. 

 

July 26-28 Paray-le-Monial to Montchanin ( the top of the Canal de Centre)

 July 26, 2023 – Wednesday - Paray-le-Monial to Génelard 

Seven écluses and 20km today. Quite a different trip when you have so many km between locks. We’re cruising through farm land and it’s quite peaceful. Mostly white cattle, some horses, and agricultural fields. 

 

Lunch stop, below the Château de Digoine

 

July 27, 2023 – Thursday - Génelard to Montceau-les-Mines 

The bridge at Génelard. During WWII this was the demarcation between Nazi France and
"Free" France. The cemetery was on the free side and the church on the Nazi side.
Many mourners went to the cemetery at funerals, but somehow didn't return. 

Seven éculuses, three lift bridges and 18km. Automatic locks now, but the lift bridges require someone to activate, so we stopped for lunch, like any civilized French person would do. Even though we were within sight of the marina. We tied up across the end of a dock, easy peasy and right below the Capitanerie/Office of Tourism. 

 

One of three lift bridges entering Montceau-les-Mines.
The red and green lights mean they are working on our request, but we are not clear to enter.

 Took a nice long walk to buy groceries and look for a mailing tube to bring home a print we bought. By the time we got back, hot and tired, we decided to pick up pizza and not bother with cooking. Michael did his Google Search and found a place a few blocks away and off we went. Home with pizza and beverage on the top deck enjoying the slight breeze. It was still very warm.

 

July 28, 2023 – Friday - Montceau-les-Mines to Montchanin 

We’re at the top!!! Nine écluses and 11.5km and we’re now done with going up. All was going quite smoothly with the automatic locks. One VNF staff stopped by while we were in a lock confirming where we would be stopping for the night. The top, Monchanin we told him. It was on record…. We cruised through a couple locks between 12h00 and 13h00, they’re automatic, we had green lights. All was fine. 

 

Joan speaking:

Then we get to écluse #1, Écluse du Bois Breton. It’s 12h45, as we enter the lock we see no lights are on. Hmm, the others gave us green lights. We continue tying up the boat and scramble to pull the blue line to activate the lock. Nothing happens. We slide the boat back and I climb the ladder so I can get a better grip on the blue line, still nothing. Hmm, maybe it wasn’t operational during the lunch hour even though the others were. We wait until a few minutes after one, with me sitting up top and Michael on the boat. I pull the blue the line, nothing. I try to use the phone box thing on the hut, but it’s broken and has a wasp nest in it. But the phone numbers are there. I call. I don’t speak French, she doesn’t speak English. I try both numbers, and I think I got the same lady. I try to use Google Translate to talk to her, but I can’t understand what she says in response. Eventually I walk over to an area that has a number of RVs, not the typical park we’ve been seeing. Kids are playing and I ask “Parle vous Englaise?” Non. They did seem to understand me a little as I asked if anyone there did. She ran and brought back three adults, one young lady very pregnant, tells me she speaks English. Merci!!! I give her the boat phone and she talks to the lady, not sure what was said but she mentioned la bataeu Juniper (remember, they have record where we’re stopping for the night). She hands me back the phone. “Is someone coming to help us?” She says yes. Whew. I walk back to the boat and tell Michael the good news. We wait. And wait. I walk up to try and find the “eye” to activate the lock from above, but can’t find it in all the vegetation. We wait. I finally suggested we backing out and coming in again to activate it. We slide the boat back so I can climb down the ladder to board Juniper. We very successfully back out (thank you Juniper who doesn’t like to backup under control) and see the green lights now! As we are entering the lock a VNF truck pulls up, comes grab our lines. Yea!!! We explain that we’d been there for over an hour, had made phone calls and finally did the backout maneuver. He is flummoxed. He wasn’t coming to rescue us, he was coming to cut the grass. Lucky for us! He calls someone, goes into the hut and activates the lock. An hour and a half later we’re through the lock, 10 minutes later we’re tied up for our evening moorage. A nice toast to Poseidon! 

Joan trying to get someone,
anyone, to get this écluse back in operation

 

A bit of laundry, some boat scrubbing, then some reading. It’s dinner time now. 8pm. 

Dinner at the summit - Tomorrow we start our downhill run.

 

July 24-25 Coulanges to Paray-le-Monial Leaving the Canal Lateral a la Loire

 July 24-25 2023 - Coulanges to Paray-le-Monial   Leaving the Canal Lateral a la Loire to the Canal du Centre when we passed through Digoin 

With the storm this morning, we waited until 10am to depart. Don’t like playing with lightning. SMS to the éclusier to schedule a 10am at lock no 2 toward Digion. Told that was the wrong number. When we got there, found it was the right number. Tee hee, Joan was right. Weather is breezy, cloudy and warm. Very nice! 

 

We crossed the Pont Canal de Digoin. An aquaduct over La Loire River. Joan got off the boat and ran ahead to take pictures of the boat crossing. 

Juniper crossing over la Loire river on an aquaduct. We now begin the Canal du Centre

 

With automatic locks on the la Loire we didn’t stop for lunch. Wasn’t sure what the weather/wind was going to do so wanted to get in. Arrived in Paray-le-Monial around 14h30. Again, only a couple boats. Turns out there was a “Sessions Emanual” event that ended yesterday. A religious revival kind of event. There were lots and lots of tents and looks like they were set up for hundreds of people or more. So glad we weren’t here for that!

Entering one of our first automatic écluses - The green light indicates we can enter

Walked to the small Carrefore grocery store to add to our supplies. Just relaxing on the boat and enjoying the cooler temps and a mint Julep. Still predicting thunderstorms through Wed We’ll walk into the town again tonight as in the past they had lights all over and it was beautiful. Hopefully the weather holds for that. 

La Basilique de Paray-le-Monial lit up for the evening

July 25, 2023 – Tuesday - Paray-le-Monial 

Layover day as we have high winds, rain and thunderstorms.