Julyl 29 - July 31 Montchanin to Santenay

 July 29, 2023 – Saturday - Montchanin to St-Léger-sur-Dheune 

From Joan's Journal

Joan and our favorite éclusier

Up and happy to be hitting the down locks for a while starting today, which we know tend to be easier than up, even the deep ones up to 5,58 meters. To be sure we’ve covered our bases, Michael uses the French boat phone to text VNF around 8am and confirm again (we told them yesterday) that we are heading out 09:15 and which direction. We get to Écluse #1, Méditerranée at our scheduled time. No éclusier there, but it’s an automatic lock, no problem we think, it’s ready for us. We tie up, pull the blue cord….nothing. Wait a few minutes, try again. Nothing. Ummm, here we go again! I try the call box on the hut, doesn’t work. But the numbers are on the hut, same as yesterday's. I get the same lady I think. We try to communicate again and I keep my fingers crossed. Shortly a VNF van pulls up and a woman éclusier is there to help with this chain of écluses, five or six at least. She speaks very good English. Merci!!!!! While helping us she chats away and we have delightful conversations. Her husband is also working the écluses, he’ll be with us through the next chain of écluses, but he shows up early and we get them both. 

 

Many of the écluses on this stretch were drop of 5 meters (16 feet), or more

We tell them we’ll wild-tie after écluse #12 for lunch, and he offers to help us tie up, but we confirm we can handle it, and they drive off to have lunch together. Have never had an éclusier offer that kind of help! They were fabulous in the écluses as well. We get to the next écluse about 13h30 and he has it up and read for us. He helps us and chats away just as delightfully. We get to the end of his chain, but he can’t reach his colleague so he takes us through the next lock as well. These two know about customer service!!!! He also shared his frustration with VNF personnel – work for 30 or so years and you automatically become a Chief. Which means you don’t have to work at the écluses, even when they’re short staffed. He shared his frustrations and how so many government employees are this way. We commiserated as that’s the case in the US and so many countries. 

 

They owned a restaurant in a small village nearby for 25 or so years. Raised their son who is now 20 and in law school. After they sold the restaurant they got a job offer in Costa Rica at a fishing lodge he had visited as a customer the year prior. They worked there five months. They were with VNF last year and again this summer. What’s next – they’re not sure. He’d love to go back to Costa Rica (he’s an avid fisherman) and she’d rather not be that from their son, maybe amongst other things as well. 

 

July 30, 2023 – Sunday - St-Léger-sur-Dheune 

From Joan's Journal

Layover day. Slept in, took a shower, enjoyed our coffee.  Walked to the grocery store to replenish, always pick up a few more items then we think we’re going to. Maybe if I didn’t grab an extra grocery bag, just in case…. 

The "house" we tied up in front of at St-Léger-sur-Dhuene

 

An éclusier came by to confirm when we’d be continuing and we said tomorrow morning and suggested 10h00 as a hotel barge was going through in our direction at 09h00. They are slow! Glad we found out today instead of tomorrow morning so we know we can be leisurely with our coffee and reading the news. 
 

Eurovelo 6 - what an amazing route

The woman éclusier yesterday had told us about La Villa Perrusson and gave us pamphlet. We didn’t stop on our way yesterday so biked up today. Rode about 17 miles on Eurovelo 6 with one small stretch on the road. It was a very comfortable temp, and so nice riding on the tree lined path. Felt really good to be on a bike again! 

 

The Villa and garden is part of the Écomusée Creusot Montceau and was refurbished, or more rebuilt. The home was built by a tile and ceramic maker between the canal and the railroad. Both were used for moving goods but also to promote their goods. The exterior of the house was built to show off their work and designs. It was quite ornate. We walked through the exposition rooms looking at photos of the refurbishing procsess, then figured out there was a part you needed to take a tour to see; unfortunately, we were too late to sign up for one. 

 

La Villa Perrusson - Showing the many architectural decorations produced

A lovely bike ride back to the boat. Saw our woman éclusier and thanked her for the recommendation. She said no boats were going through her section of locks today. Wow. So weird to be end of July and so few boats. 

July 31, 2023 – Monday - St-Léger-sur-Dheune to Santenay

From Joan's Journal

Four écluses and 8 km – easy day! The first écluse was scheduled for 10h00 with the éclusier yesterday because a hotel barge had it scheduled for 9h00. Arrived 10h05 and the lock was down. We grabbed a bollard and waited. We couldn’t figure out if the “eye” wasn’t seeing us to activate it or what. Around 10h30 the éclusier arrived by car and activated the lock without getting out. Once he was sure it was operating he waived at us and drove off. We get in, tie up and I pull the blue cord. Nothing. Waiting and multiple tries, nothing. A gentleman who lives in what was probably the old éclusier's house beside the lock comes out, goes into the hut and works the magic – the lock closes and all is good. The next locks were all set up and ready for us and worked as they should. We’re guessing the éclusier had to reset the locks after the hotel barge and hadn’t worked that into the scheduling with us. C’est la vie in France. 

 

The Santenay vineyards - last time we were by the leaves were just beginning to show

This time, the grapes are starting to change color.

We got to Santenay and were going to stop just for lunch then decided to stay the night. Wild-tying as there was no power or water, but a nice wall and bollards. There was a steady, and I mean steady, number of cyclists and walkers going by. It was one of the best used section of trail we’ve seen yet. Many appeared to be locals, some distance riders. It was a nice day with a comfortable temperature. Another boat that had left St-Léger-sur-Dheune shortly after us pulled up for lunch also. It was the boat that had the large pop-up canopy over the cockpit, like the canopies you use in your yard or for events. Michael helped with their lines. 

 

Malcolm and Marilyn's very original bimini. Fits perfectly and lots of shade.

After lunch we decided to stay the night as it’s probably our last opportunity to “wild-tie”.  The couple, Malcomb and Marilyn, came over, thanked Michael for the help and introduced themselves. Very nice chat with them. Helping someone with lines has been a great way to meet folks! They headed into Chagny and we agreed to meet up the next day. Talked about doing a rum and wine tasting together. 

 

July 26-28 Paray-le-Monial to Montchanin ( the top of the Canal de Centre)

 July 26, 2023 – Wednesday - Paray-le-Monial to Génelard 

Seven écluses and 20km today. Quite a different trip when you have so many km between locks. We’re cruising through farm land and it’s quite peaceful. Mostly white cattle, some horses, and agricultural fields. 

 

Lunch stop, below the Château de Digoine

 

July 27, 2023 – Thursday - Génelard to Montceau-les-Mines 

The bridge at Génelard. During WWII this was the demarcation between Nazi France and
"Free" France. The cemetery was on the free side and the church on the Nazi side.
Many mourners went to the cemetery at funerals, but somehow didn't return. 

Seven éculuses, three lift bridges and 18km. Automatic locks now, but the lift bridges require someone to activate, so we stopped for lunch, like any civilized French person would do. Even though we were within sight of the marina. We tied up across the end of a dock, easy peasy and right below the Capitanerie/Office of Tourism. 

 

One of three lift bridges entering Montceau-les-Mines.
The red and green lights mean they are working on our request, but we are not clear to enter.

 Took a nice long walk to buy groceries and look for a mailing tube to bring home a print we bought. By the time we got back, hot and tired, we decided to pick up pizza and not bother with cooking. Michael did his Google Search and found a place a few blocks away and off we went. Home with pizza and beverage on the top deck enjoying the slight breeze. It was still very warm.

 

July 28, 2023 – Friday - Montceau-les-Mines to Montchanin 

We’re at the top!!! Nine écluses and 11.5km and we’re now done with going up. All was going quite smoothly with the automatic locks. One VNF staff stopped by while we were in a lock confirming where we would be stopping for the night. The top, Monchanin we told him. It was on record…. We cruised through a couple locks between 12h00 and 13h00, they’re automatic, we had green lights. All was fine. 

 

Joan speaking:

Then we get to écluse #1, Écluse du Bois Breton. It’s 12h45, as we enter the lock we see no lights are on. Hmm, the others gave us green lights. We continue tying up the boat and scramble to pull the blue line to activate the lock. Nothing happens. We slide the boat back and I climb the ladder so I can get a better grip on the blue line, still nothing. Hmm, maybe it wasn’t operational during the lunch hour even though the others were. We wait until a few minutes after one, with me sitting up top and Michael on the boat. I pull the blue the line, nothing. I try to use the phone box thing on the hut, but it’s broken and has a wasp nest in it. But the phone numbers are there. I call. I don’t speak French, she doesn’t speak English. I try both numbers, and I think I got the same lady. I try to use Google Translate to talk to her, but I can’t understand what she says in response. Eventually I walk over to an area that has a number of RVs, not the typical park we’ve been seeing. Kids are playing and I ask “Parle vous Englaise?” Non. They did seem to understand me a little as I asked if anyone there did. She ran and brought back three adults, one young lady very pregnant, tells me she speaks English. Merci!!! I give her the boat phone and she talks to the lady, not sure what was said but she mentioned la bataeu Juniper (remember, they have record where we’re stopping for the night). She hands me back the phone. “Is someone coming to help us?” She says yes. Whew. I walk back to the boat and tell Michael the good news. We wait. And wait. I walk up to try and find the “eye” to activate the lock from above, but can’t find it in all the vegetation. We wait. I finally suggested we backing out and coming in again to activate it. We slide the boat back so I can climb down the ladder to board Juniper. We very successfully back out (thank you Juniper who doesn’t like to backup under control) and see the green lights now! As we are entering the lock a VNF truck pulls up, comes grab our lines. Yea!!! We explain that we’d been there for over an hour, had made phone calls and finally did the backout maneuver. He is flummoxed. He wasn’t coming to rescue us, he was coming to cut the grass. Lucky for us! He calls someone, goes into the hut and activates the lock. An hour and a half later we’re through the lock, 10 minutes later we’re tied up for our evening moorage. A nice toast to Poseidon! 

Joan trying to get someone,
anyone, to get this écluse back in operation

 

A bit of laundry, some boat scrubbing, then some reading. It’s dinner time now. 8pm. 

Dinner at the summit - Tomorrow we start our downhill run.

 

July 24-25 Coulanges to Paray-le-Monial Leaving the Canal Lateral a la Loire

 July 24-25 2023 - Coulanges to Paray-le-Monial   Leaving the Canal Lateral a la Loire to the Canal du Centre when we passed through Digoin 

With the storm this morning, we waited until 10am to depart. Don’t like playing with lightning. SMS to the éclusier to schedule a 10am at lock no 2 toward Digion. Told that was the wrong number. When we got there, found it was the right number. Tee hee, Joan was right. Weather is breezy, cloudy and warm. Very nice! 

 

We crossed the Pont Canal de Digoin. An aquaduct over La Loire River. Joan got off the boat and ran ahead to take pictures of the boat crossing. 

Juniper crossing over la Loire river on an aquaduct. We now begin the Canal du Centre

 

With automatic locks on the la Loire we didn’t stop for lunch. Wasn’t sure what the weather/wind was going to do so wanted to get in. Arrived in Paray-le-Monial around 14h30. Again, only a couple boats. Turns out there was a “Sessions Emanual” event that ended yesterday. A religious revival kind of event. There were lots and lots of tents and looks like they were set up for hundreds of people or more. So glad we weren’t here for that!

Entering one of our first automatic écluses - The green light indicates we can enter

Walked to the small Carrefore grocery store to add to our supplies. Just relaxing on the boat and enjoying the cooler temps and a mint Julep. Still predicting thunderstorms through Wed We’ll walk into the town again tonight as in the past they had lights all over and it was beautiful. Hopefully the weather holds for that. 

La Basilique de Paray-le-Monial lit up for the evening

July 25, 2023 – Tuesday - Paray-le-Monial 

Layover day as we have high winds, rain and thunderstorms.

 

July 21 - 23. Decize to Coulanges

 July 21, 2023 – Friday - Decize to Vanneaux 

Michael & Joan
Returning from the market

Up at 7am, quick cup of coffee and off to the Decize Street Market at 8:30am with Ali and Charl. Small market, picked up some fruit, goat cheese and green beans. On way back to the boat picked up really good croissants, baguette and quiche. Had the croissants and quiche with final cup of coffee. Yummm. 

 

                                

Said goodbye to Ali and Charl, they are going down the Canal lateral á la Loire while we are going up. It was really nice buddy boating with them for 7 or 8 days. With so few boats out we may have been on our for many of those nights. 

Charl & Ali
Returning from the market

 

Just as we were untying Juniper to take off, a fish was flopping wildly a couple slips away. We thought it was stuck in the milfoil, but turns out another fish had grabbed it in the middle of its stomach and killed it.

Picture taken while coming up in an écluse

 Today was 16km and five écluses. We left Decize at 10:45am, had short stop for lunch, and arrived at the Commune de Gannay sur Loire by 3pm. Along the way we had four and five km between locks, that was a nice change from lock after lock after lock. We also saw what we believe were stork nests. We remembered seeing them last year going the other direction. A couple big storks, but didn’t see babies. 

 

Tied up past the camp area (moorage and RV spots) and boatyard and still had power!! There were chains through the metal canal wall that we tied to so didn’t have to drive stakes. Two more boats actually came in after us. One was Vivante, another NW boat, they left Decize just after us. Turns out they are the new owners, bought the boat with a partner from Tom and Carol. The other boat is a very nice couple, not sure where they’re from but I think French. Live music at the camp area, we could hear it down at the boat. We walked up there, but they must have been on break. Then we heard them again later from the boat. Nice music so we didn’t mind it. J 

 

Nice quiet spot and dark. Just the way I like it for sleeping!!! 

 

 

July 22, 2023 – Saturday - Vanneaux to Beulon 

Off at 9am. Five écluses and about 15km. Shared a couple locks with a small sailboat that had a young couple onboard. Still finding it weird to have so many kilometers between locks! 

 

Beulon is nice. Had power and access to water. Campers grabbed our lines when we arrived, which was very nice. We in turn, grabbed lines for a boat that was next to us the night before and had helped in then. Very nice French couple with a dog. Later a Locaboat with what looked like a dad and older son arrived so we and the French couple moved to make room for them. A number of RVs were also at the camp. Again, no fee and had water and electricity. 

Moorage at Beulon - Looks like a lot of boats, but only three of us were actually there.

 

Went for a stroll towards town in the evening after dinner, but having worn my sandals, didn’t go too far. The lock is right next to the camp and we were told the éclusier had to open the last lock we went through at 9am so we would be closer to 9:30 going through. 

 

July 23, 2023 – Sunday – Beulon to Coulanges 

Up, showered and ready for 9am lock, just in case. Good thing, as we saw the éclusier arrive a few minutes before 9am. He took us through our first and second écluses. A change from what we’d heard yesterday, but worked for us! 

 

Six écluses and 22.5km. Shared a couple locks with a Locaboat. Saw three day tour boats used for a party. Just not much traffic on the canals for being July. Unfortunately there is a lot of weeds which slow us down because it gets caught in the prop. Then the engine temp goes up and we have reverse the engine to try and break it loose. It’s a drag (pun intended). 

 

Morning was comfortable with cloud cover. Afternoon got hot and muggy – 85 and no breeze. Predicting thunderstorms through 12am Tuesday and 60% chance of rain tomorrow. Feels like it. 

 

Got to Coulonges around 2:30 – 3pm. Water and electricity is available using a CC at the terminal. Hoping it works! We only have hot water when we’re plugged in. When they replaced our hot water heater they did something wrong and it caused the boat to overheat until they removed the hot water heater from the engine cooling system.

 

Peaceful night by ourselves at Coulanges

Looks like no other boats sharing moorage with us tonight. Just a quay along the wall with bollards in a small quiet town. Had one small boat come tie up for a short bit, then left and went the same way they had come from. Very different from buddy boating with Old Harry. 

 

July 18 - 20: Panneçot - Decize

 July 18, 2023 – Tuesday – Panneçot to Cercy-la-Tour 

Off to Cercy-la-Tour today – 13km and 5 locks. Got in by noon and found moorage easily, as the only boat at the dock left when they saw us coming out of the écluse. Spent the day walking through the ancient village that is built on a hillside, then hunkered down in the shade on the bank above our boats. Spent the afternoon, dinner, and finally sunset there, waiting for the boats to cool enough to go to sleep.

A château with a view of its farm land that passed by.

The village of Cercy-la-Tour as seen from the
statue of Notre Dame, Du Nivernais that is located at the top of the hill

When we arrived we paid for moorage and power, only to find that the power didn't work. The office tried to see if they could get it fixed but had no luck. Since we paid by credit card on their digital pay station they couldn't refund any of our payment. More often than not moorage on this trip has been free, getting upset about having to overpay didn't seem worth worrying about.

  

 

July 19, 2023 – Wednesday – Cercy-la-Tour to Decize 

Got up early to depart at 8:30am. Four km until the first lock and it was a beautiful day. Even got to enjoy my second cup of coffee while under way! Hard to do that when you have locks frequently and don’t like cool coffee J. Got the first lock at 9:30 and it wasn’t open. We ended up tying up as we didn’t see the éclusier either. She finally came out and we continued on. She was not the fastest worker. So many of our éclusiers have been amazing! Not many boats going through so maybe she’s just not in good practice ;-). 

 

One of the remaining portals to the old
walled city of Decize. Built in the 1400s

Got into Decize by noon! Lots and lots of open slips. Immediately jumped on getting laundry done at the one washing machine and dryer at the port. I used the dryer on two cycles for the sheets and towels, but still not totally dry. We now have laundry hanging all over the boat. Clean sheets!!!!! It’s been too long… 

 

Michael ran to the store and we got a bit of cleaning done on the boat. Ready to head over to happy hour on Old Harry with Ali and Charl. 

 

Took a shower before climbing into bed with our clean sheets and it felt amazing!! 

 

July 20, 2023 – Thursday – Decize 

No alarm this morning. Still up by 7am because it gets bright and that’s what my body clock is set to now. Layover day in Decize. Walked through old town, across the river(s) to get to the Le Clerc Sport store to fix the brake on one of our bikes and pick up new bike tube for the tank bike. Now we’re up to two bikes again. Yippee! Charl and Ali walked out with us then we split up to each take care of chores. We went Brico for bbq gaz and grocery shopping at the La Clerc, 

Back at the marina we topped off our fuel and replaced the empty Gaz (Butane Bottle), then filled up water. Our goal is to hit the street Market in the AM and head out of Decize no later than 13h00. Tonight we’re going to dinner with Charl and Ali at the restaurant in the hotel in marina. Made reservations last night to be sure we could get in.

 

Weather is really good. 80s today, not too humid. Shade makes a huge difference as does a slight breeze. Temps should be low 80s to mid-to-upper 70s this next week. Very happy with these temps given that many other parts of the world are breaking heat records for highs and duration. Last year Tom & Mary had three separate weeks here in France on the boat with temps 100 degrees. We are counting our blessings!! 

 

Dinner at the Port of Decize Hotel Restaurant was “lovely” as Charl would say. Food presentation was beautiful, Finished the night with a scotch on Old Harry. It was a bit sad knowing it was our last evening with them! They reiterated their invitation for us to come visit them in Akaroa, New Zealand. Suggesting we rent an RV and follow them around on a tour before spending a week at their home. We, of course, extended a visit to Seattle! 

 

July 16-18 Baye to Penneçot

 July 16, 2023 – Sunday – Baye to Châtillon-en-Bazois 

Left Baye this morning and had a great run to Châtillon-en-Bazois. Still buddy boating with Ali & Charl on Old Harry. Once in port we had happy hour on Old Harry and Michael & June on Contessa, also from New Zealand, joined us. We’ve seen them occasionally but this is the first time we met them. 

A triple chamber écluse. Juniper and Old Harry still in tight quarters.
Joan handling lines for both boats on the wall
as well as helping the lock keepers open and close gates

 

The weather was a wonderful temperature today, chilly in the AM then comfortable the remainder of the day. So lucky not to have the heat! We did 14 locks and almost 14 kilometers. There were some doubles and a triple lock so had a couple nice stretches of running without a lock. Going down now! While it is easier, the bollards are not set well for our two boats so it takes some juggling to keep the boats apart.

Passing through acres of sun flowers

Châtillon-en-Bazois has a chateau just above the harbor. And a grocery store about 1 kilometer away. We are in need of groceries so will make the walk tomorrow morning. May not see the chateau as we need to keep moving towards the Saône River for handing the boat off to Tom & Mary. 

  

 

July 17, 2023 – Monday - Châtillon-en-Bazois to Panneçot 

Alarm went off at 6:45am so Michael could go to the boulangerie here in Châtillon-en-Bazois, he returned with croissants and a baguette cereal (seeds, etc included). We all walked to the grocery store and departed with Old Harry 10:30am. Warm day! Reaching 80. 

 

The main route to the store was along a busy road.
Fortunately we were able to locate a trail and farm road
that got us to the same place.

We did 22 km and 9 locks and many bridges. The bridges were very low and caused challenges for Old Harry, which draws more water and is much higher than Juniper. They managed to get under the bridge (Pont) that is the lowest on the Nivernais because the lock keeper lowered the water. This is a known challenge and the common way to solve it. I had gotten off Juniper under the bridge and helped push/pull them to keep them in the center and inch their way through. They killed the engine, put the throttle knobs down and still scraped one – it was the highest point on the boat at that time. Now they know they can make it all the way up and around and back to Auxerre. 

Bicycle camp, just across the path from our moorage.
Campers were 6 - 11 doing a 100km bike ride over
4 days. A van carried their camping gear.

 

Arrived in Panneçot at a municipal camp ground. A group of youngsters, looks like a summer camp, are camping right next to us. They are so good! Quiet too!! Both boys and girls and only heard one screech when a ball was heading for the water. There are bikes and they’re tent camping. Wish we could chat better with the staff and learn more about them. The leaders found their camp stove and canister didn’t work together. Ali and Michael worked with them to see what either of us had that would work for them. Luckily one of the Juniper tanks connected. Not sure how long it’ll last for them as we found it was basically empty when Michael pulled it out. Luckily our other feels pretty full! We’ll get a full one in Decize in a couple of days. Doing very little cooking since it’s so warm. Salads and BBQ meat are the name of the game. 

 

Happy hour on Old Harry again this evening. Charl likes it on their boat so he can smoke his cigars J. We each bring our own beverage and take turns bringing a simple snack. 

 

"Juniper" and "Old Harry" - Campers are directly behind us.

Surprised there was no other boats in the camp ground, but there are camper vans. Only 12 Euros including power and water (if you need it). A Le Boat came in and Michael, being his usual self, helped by grabbing their lines. They were in great control. They only stayed a short bit, then took off, so just us two boats for the night. 

 

Watching the kids camp was taking Michael and I down memory lane – me working camps, Post 954, and taking our own kids on adventures kayaking, biking and camping when they were young. Hope to do some of that with Emma… 

 

July 12 - 15 Sardy-les-Epiry - Baye

 July 12 - Today's the day we do the 16 écluses of the Sardy Lock Staircase that links together 16 chambers. While some may think this sounds like a chore the staircase takes us up a beautiful valley, with many of the old lock keeper's houses now inhabited by artists. Plus you gat a top notch crew of éclusiers, We had a team of three that whisked us through in a bit over 2 1/2 hours.

The distance between chambers leaves just enough room for uphill and downhill boats to pass

Lock keepers house

With the shorter locks, it was a tight fit for "Old Harry" and Juniper.
Charl and Ali hard at work on their lines

One of the first things we notice is these écluses are 10 meters shorter than the chambers we have been in lately. Buddy boating with a 15 meter boat and us at 11 meters doesn't leave much room for lock doors to open and close and us to keep from hitting each other in the turbulent currents experienced going uphill

Two of our lock keepers waiting for the water levels to match
so they can open the gate

Entrance to one of the tunnels

Dark and narrow
hard to keep the boat in the center

Passageway between tunnels

At the top - your reward is a oneway passage of three unlit tunnels connected by a deep narrow ditch. In the end, you arrive at Baye with its beautiful Étang de Baye that serves as a reservoir for the Nivernais Canal as well being a beautiful clean body of water for swimming, non-motorized boating and fishing.

And - our final reward was a dinner out with Charl and Ali, our écluse partners these past few day.

The end of the storm - tomorrow's going to be a great day for cruising

We ended up staying an extra day due to a storm that swept through, plus Michael wasn't feeling good. That evening we had a rainbow that went nearly from horizon to horizon. What a treat